This is one of the most frequently asked and misunderstood concepts, not just for consumers of coffee... but by roasters, baristas, and shop owners, alike. It is the foundation of what sets specialty coffee apart from all others, yet the operational definition is not understood by both consumers and professionals, meaning that the specialty coffee industry has failed to focus their education efforts toward the majority of the population, focusing instead on a small percentage of industry professionals and influential home baristas. I often see terms like, "gourmet, specialty, premium, and high-grade" used as descriptors for a roaster's coffee, yet upon inspecting samples of their roast, find enough defects to classify their product as commodity-grade. However, I do not believe that the majority of roasters do this with the intention of deception; they simply do not understand what "specialty coffee" actually means.
Grading:
To start, the classification of specialty coffee is not a subjective evaluation made by the individual who believes that the product they are selling is special, nor does it describe a coffee-based drink that has been created with a medley of milks and syrups, blended to meet the evolutionary desire for quick and easy sugars and fats. Specialty coffee is defined by meeting standardized grading criteria, set by the Specialty Coffee Association. Coffees are evaluated in their green/unroasted state and must be free of all primary defects, have no quakers (immature beans high in amino acids and low in sugar), are accurately sized, dried, and after evaluation, score 80 or above (out of 100) on a specialty coffee scale. Coffee will also undergo cupping evaluations, and must meet certain sensory criteria that is specified by the absence of negative attributes and must possess distinctive and desirable qualities, set by the SCA. Specialty coffee scores can be further divided, with very good (80.00-84.99), excellent (85.00-89.99) and outstanding (90.00-100.00). Only about 10% of coffees will be classified as specialty coffee.
Graders:
Those who are formally qualified to evaluate coffee quality are known as Q-Graders (literally, quality graders). These graders are certified by the Coffee Quality Institute, and have passed a three-day barrage of 20 sensory evaluation exams and assessments, divided into 9 modules, intended to test learners in cupping protocols, olfactory and gustatory senses, green coffee defect identification, roast sample level identification and matching pairs of coffee acids (Coffee Quality Institute, 2023). Upon successful completion, the Q-Grader will need to undergo additional testing every three years, in order to maintain their certification. It is estimated that there are currently 8,000 certified Q-Graders, worldwide. As of 2023, the Q-Grading certification attrition rate was estimated to be around 50%, and it is estimated that around 400 Q-Graders are in the United States. Now, do I think you need to be a Q-Grader to accurately assess coffee? No, but it's certainly helpful; I have met men that were never soldiers, who are more tactically proficient than I ever was during my time in the military. I have met those who have treated life-threatening injuries, despite never having a formal medical certification. However, education means more learning opportunities, a greater understanding of concepts, and provides the individual with the correct tools to more accurately observe, orient, decide, and act in their given profession. Certification lets you and others know that you possess the appropriate knowledge and skills to accurately and efficiently complete a specific task.
The Why:
So, why have standards in coffee? Does it really matter if we define, what is widely regarded as a commodity, incorrectly? Well, even the word "commodity" has a definition in the coffee industry (coffee that scores below 80 on the coffee evaluation scale). In short, accurate grading means that we are being transparent about the quality, taste, and price of the coffees that we are selling or consuming. To be transparent is to be truthful, fair, and provide sustainable relationships that impact every aspect of the specialty coffee industry.
Examples of Coffee Evaluation Criteria: