The French press, as we know it, has been credited to the works of Attilio Calimani and Giulio Moneta, who patented the device in 1929. A simple device, consisting of a cylindrical beaker, paired with a lid and wire mesh plunger, is an immersion concept that is widely praised for its full body, rich mouthfeel, retention of natural oils, and ability to extract heavier cupping notes. It has also been praised for its portability, ease of use, and ability to create large yields without much effort. However, what the French press has in pros are easily outweighed by its cons, some of which can be attributed to the very things it is praised for.
Filter Design:
The French press uses a wire mesh filter with openings that vary in micron size, which allow finer particles to easily pass through and into the final product. While this is considered a strength, due to it allowing more natural oils to pass through, it also creates the perfect opportunity for microfines to appear in your yield. This is the root cause of a gritty, silty mouthfeel, which, contrary to popular belief, is not mitigated by simply grinding coarser. The wire mesh filter will continue to filter grinds above a certain micron level, but allow fines smaller than the openings in the filter to pass through. If you are using a functional grinder that is consistent and from a reputable company, the production of fines/inconsistent grind particles should not be an issue, regardless of how coarse you are grinding (although, different coffees do have a tendency to produce more or less fines). Additionally, the courser you grind can influence the rate of extraction, which should be considered in water temperature and brew time.
Cup Quality:
The French press is also inefficient at producing much clarity, for a variety of coffees, leaning heavily instead in the direction of being body-forward. In the age of the third-wave (and arguably, the fourth-wave) tasting coffee means to taste the nuances and origin characteristics of what we are consuming. The French press neglects to bring out the full spectrum of cupping notes in coffees that are brewed with it, making it inferior to other immersion methods, such as the Clever Dripper. Finally, extraction varies with this method and can be harder to control and replicate consistently, which are strengths of percolation methods, such as the Hario V60 or Kalita Wave. Even the Aeropress (while less predictable with replication) produces very clean and sweet cups, especially when compared to the French press. Compared to all of these brewers, the French press is more unpredictable and lacks the same level of control on extraction that we have with them.
Waste:
The French press is commonly utilized by those who prefer not to use paper filters, believing that the mesh filter of a French press will be the most sustainable substitute. However, we must consider the preparation, brewing, cleaning, and maintenance in the accrual of waste for the French press, when comparing it to other filter brewing methods. First of all, The French press still requires hot water to be used while pre-heating the beaker, similar to rinsing the filter paper on other devices (while simultaneously pre-heating them). Next, the French press produces less coffee per gram than percolation methods, often requiring a higher dose of beans, with a lower coffee to water ratio. Total yield is also greatly diminished, due a portion of the final product remaining in the French press or serving carafe (in order to reduce the amount of sediment in one's cup). Finally, the beaker and mesh filter need to be cleaned, which often involves cleaning agents and requires more water to clean (more of an energy cost if the water is hot). Compare this to the Clever Dripper, which simply requires one to quickly rinse the device and throw away/compost the used filter paper, and the French press is seen to have very minimal gains.
Time:
The average French press recipe calls for a four-minute immersion time, but I have found that a five minute immersion-period is closer to the average amount of time (for various coffees and a medium-coarse grind). If you are using the DDC method or the Hoffman method, the total time from extraction to completed cup may take up to ten minutes. Once again, paper filter methods outperform the French press in this area. The claim that the French press is time-efficient is the fallacy of those who are drinking suboptimal cups, brewed in a hurry, with this device.
The Bottom Line:
The French press is a symbol of simplicity and innovation during the 1900's, but specialty coffee has progressed past the use of this device. Of course, we now have more advanced variations, paired with multiple mesh screens, higher quality materials, insulated bodies, cloth filter substitutes... but the truth is that it remains behind on the innovations of today. The time and effort it takes to produce a heavy-bodied cup that lacks clarity and refinement is simply not worth the effort invested and is an unnecessary endeavor, altogether. Apply a cost-benefit analysis to your use of the French press, compared to other brewing methods, and see the evidence behind these claims. Instead, I recommend the the Clever Dripper or Aeropress, for those who are seeking something similar to the French press, minus the cons associated with it.
Degenerates Drinking Coffee will be offering these substitutes at the beginning of 2024.